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Skratch Lessons: Coarse Pitch Adjustment

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[MUSIC]
What's going on you guys?
Today we're gonna be talking about doing a
Coarse Pitch Calibration.
Now the first thing I want to explain is
why we would do this.
In the other video I showed you how to
calibrate your pitch.
This is a less common problem, but
if you are having this issue with your
pitch very easy fix.
You're not gonna spend money replacing a
pitch fader or anything like that.
So, first we're gonna talk about why we
would do a coarse adjustment.
Now what I mean by coarse adjustment is
we're gonna be adjusting the pitch fader
from the bottom of the pitch fader.
And not from [NOISE] inside the
motherboard where I showed you last time.
Now, you know you need to do this
calibration if you have this
issue as follows.
So if you watched the last video I
explained how these dots work, and
how they let you know if your turntable is
calibrated properly.
But what I couldn't show you at the time
because the turntable was good
is the issue that will call for a coarse
adjustment.
So, we're gonna start the deck.
The deck right now is at the zero position
with the pitch reset light engaged or
the quartz lock engaged.
And as you can see, this center row of
dots here looks like it's not moving.
If that was bad, the row would be all over
the place, but
if you just let it ride, it looks like
it's sitting still, right.
Now as I go to my pitch fader and
I start moving my pitch up, you can see
that the row of dots starts to move.
But it stops as I reach the two position.
So yours might be a little different.
The point is is that it's not supposed to
stop again like this, right.
The center row of dots is not supposed to
look like it's not moving unless it's at
the zero position.
So right now I'm at plus two on my pitch
fader,
and the center row of dots looks like it's
not moving.
Now what you wanna do is, find that sweet
spot where it looks
like it's not moving, not at the zero
point but at wherever it's messed up.
So mine it's plus two.
At plus two, the center row of dots looks
like it's not moving.
So you want to find that sweet spot, and
leave the pitch fader at that spot.
So, I'm gonna leave my pitch fader at plus
two,
where the dots appear like they're not
moving.
I'm gonna stop the platter.
Power off the deck.
And what I want to do next is, remove the
platter, and
remove the black dust cover underneath the
platter.
[SOUND].
Okay, so now that we've got that off,
without moving the pitch fader at all,
leave the pitch fader in that little sweet
spot where it wasn't moving,
we're going to disconnect this top
connector here.
Which is the connector that goes to our
pitch fader.
We're gonna disconnect it, leave it
disconnected,
and then we're gonna safely flip the turn
table over.
And we're gonna pull off the feet, and
we're gonna pull out 20 screws so we can
take the black rubber base off.
We're gonna pull all that up and we're
gonna set it to the side,
and we're gonna be looking at the actual
pitch fader from the bottom.
So, disconnect this, leave it there,
leave your pitch fader in the position
that it was in, flip the table over,
pull the feet off, pull the black cover
off, and we're gonna go.
Alright you guys, not that we have it
flipped over we're gonna double check and
make sure again that our turntable is not
plugged in.
So we don't have to worry about getting
shocked or anything like that.
Now what we're gonna need is one of these
little multimeters.
You can get these at Radio Shack for like
$10.
And what we're gonna do is set it to
20,000 in the resistance setting.
So mine says ohm right here.
If yours doesn't say ohm it might have a
symbol that looks like a little upside
down horseshoe.
That means you're gonna be in the
resistance area of where you need to
be testing.
Now set it to 20k or 20,000,
and touch the leads together to make sure
that it goes to zero.
That means your multimeter's working the
way it's supposed to.
So we're gonna do this.
We're gonna come over here to the pitch
fader,
and we're going to take a reading from the
solder joints where the red wire and
the brown wire come into the pitch fader.
Now it doesn't matter which way,
which leads you use to touch which solder
point it makes no difference.
What we're gonna do is we're gonna touch
the solder point where the red and
brown wires come into the table, and we're
gonna take a reading.
So right now it's saying 1.61.
So we're gonna remember that number, 1.61,
right?
What we're going to want to do is,
at this point you remember how we left our
pitch fader in the position, or
in that sweet spot where the numbers were
stopping again.
What we wanna do is move the pitch fader
back to the original
zero point or the pitch reset point.
And you here it click, all right?
So I have it there now.
I did without flipping the table over.
You might have to flip the table over.
What we're gonna do is, we're going to
move that back to the zero position, our
center position.
And we're going to hold our leads on the
same spot that we read from earlier.
The red and the brown wires where they
connect.
And we're going to take a very small
Phillips head screwdriver.
And we're gonna make our coarse
adjustment.
I'm sorry, it's really hard to try and
hold this with one hand.
Okay, so right now, you can see that it
says 2.74.
What we're gonna do, is take our small
screw driver, we're gonna
straighten this hole, and we're going to
adjust it until it says 1.61.
Or whatever, whatever the number was you
got when you read yours,
that's what number you need to adjust this
to.
Mine just happened to be 1.61.
So we wanna try and get that as close as
possible.
Right now, I'm at 1.66.
Now, if you're very close like this, then
it's fine, you can just leave it there.
So I'm gonna leave it at 1.65, my original
number was 1.61.
The point being is that you wanna get as
close to it as possible.
Then, what we're gonna do, is remove our
leads.
We can turn off our little multi-meter.
[SOUND].
And we're gonna go in reverse order.
We're gonna put the black rubber base back
on.
Tighten down the 20 screws.
We're gonna put our rubber feet back on.
We're gonna flip the turntable.
And we'll go from there.
All right you guys, now that we've flipped
it back over and
put everything back together on the
bottom, the first thing that
we need to do is put this connector back
on, so put your pitch connector back on.
And almost every time you do a coarse
calibration,
you have to do a fine calibration right
after.
Course means broad, so
what we did was we got the pitch fader
working the way it needed to be.
Now what we need to do is do a fine
adjustment, and tweak it so that it'll be
very precise, so that the dots here will
read exactly how they're supposed to.
So we're gonna do, reconnect the
connector,
[NOISE] put the platter back on, and we're
gonna do a quick fine adjustment.
So what we're gonna do is we're gonna go
straight to positive six and we're
going to tweak, let me show you in case
you guys didn't watch the other video.
This blue potentiometer up here, the one
that says pitch above it.
It's not always gonna be blue.
Sometimes it'll be silver like this.
This blue guy here, is your fine
adjustment.
So what we need to do is go to positive
six on the pitch fader, and
then put the platter back on.
And we need to tweak this until the top
row of dots
looks like it's not moving on the platter.
Let me show you what I mean.
So as we put the platter back on, I'm
gonna zoom in to my dots here.
Turn the deck on.
Right now I am at positive six on the
pitch fader.
And you can see that the top row of dots
looks like it's moving real fast.
It needs to look like it's not moving.
So what we're going to do is, come in from
the top of the platter,
and we're going to adjust that
potentiometer that we just looked at.
If you guys are confused, you guys can go
into the fine pitch calibration video and
see what I'm talking about.
But, I just did it real quick.
You can see the top of row of dots looks
like it's not moving
at the plus six position.
And there we go.
Our pitch fader is working exactly the way
it's supposed to.
Now when I'm at zero, looking at the
center row of dots,
I come out of zero going up and you can
see that they don't stop again.
They do exactly what they're supposed to
do.
At plus six, the top row looks like it's
not moving.
At 3.3, the second row looks like it's not
moving.
Zero, the big dots look like they're not
moving.
And at negative 3.3, the bottom row is not
moving.
That is a perfectly calibrated Technics
1200.
Alright, if you guys have any questions
for me, go to the ask Qbert section
on the forums and I have a thread in there
called turntable tune up.
You guys can direct any questions there.
Even if it's not about anything that I've
covered.
If you guys have questions about something
I haven't gotten to yet
be happy to help you one on one with you,
video chat with you.
I'm here to help you guys save money.
So, you know any questions you have
anything I can do to help,
I have no problem doing that, alright.
Peace out.
[MUSIC]